DESTINATION HANOI

Hanoi is an amazing hidden gem of travel destination. It's a city caught in two time zones. Old Hanoi is a mix mash of hawkers,street vendors, street food, and cheap buys. On the same streets are glitzy bars, overpriced souvenirs, tour offices and lots and lots of hotels and lodges.

One of the less touristy lanes where locals buy their wares

Street vendors ply their wares on baskets dangled from a rattan poles (perched precariously on  their shoulders), haunt the hotels and lodges. 

Vietnamese mee hoon which we tried

I was fascinated by the numerous sidewalk kitchens offering all kinds of local delicacies (which we did try once, with some painful consequences!!), but the locals seem to relish the food as they sit on low stools to have a quick meal before going to work. 

While strolling along a lane, we spotted a small shop advertising 'Egg Coffee' and we decided to give it a try. It was indeed unique. Smooth, creamy, custardly combined with a potent shot of espresso! 

 The boat cruise on Ha Long Bay was spectacular and it was also a gastronomical delight. Hubby had his first lesson on making Vietnamese spring rolls.

We shunned the bigger restaurants and opted for the smaller outlets. And we discovered gems like these : Thai steam boat, lots of varieties of salads (the Vietnamese love their salads)

We sampled local coffee and hubby enjoyed his ice cream

The highlight of our gastronomical search was Cha Ca La Vong (Hanoi Turmeric Fish). My friend had told me of this place and so we navigated the streets, weaving through the myriad of motorbikes to No 14, Cha Ca Street. Lo and behold, neon lights emblazoned boldly and gaudily, was "No. 14 Cha Ca La Vong" !, the very first shop along the street. The waiter ushered us in, "Yes,yes, this is THE Cha Ca La Vong. Look, No 14". I was skeptical as I remembered my friend telling me it was a nondescript shop. I gestured hubby to leave the place,and we walked further, and we came to an old plain looking shop, "Cha Ca Le Vong". That must be it!. Then I looked at the shop house number. It was No. 12. Nope, not the one. Another fake.

 (R) The imitation CCLV - note the No. 14 in neon. (L) Another imitation CCLV

 The bona fide CCLV

 We found the bona fide No. 14, Cha Ca Le Vong right next door. It looked nothing like any restaurant. There was no table at all, just a family altar in the front hall. A man gestured to us to go upstairs. We climbed a steep narrow stairs, and as we reached the landing, we caught a whiff of aromatic herbs and heard the sound of sizzling wok. We sat at a table next to a Swede lady and her son. The waitress did not give us any menu card, nor did she ask us what we wanted. It was understood. Everyone who came here, came for only one dish, the turmeric grilled fish. Was it worth the search? Why, people from as far as Sweden, USA have come to this very place for this one famous dish !! 

Yum! It was worth the search

Note : No. 14, Cha Ca La Vong is so well known that it has given rise to so many imitation outlets. The the original is still at the nondescript shop.